Monday, August 4, 2014

TETSU (Tokyo, Minato-ku)

TETSU品達店
てつ
TETSU

Tsukemen with ajitama: 16 / 20

In 2011, I had my last Japanese dish (a tsukemen, of course) before going back to my country with a German friend at what may be the most famous chain of high-quality tsukemen restaurant: TETSU, in Kyoto station. More than three years later, back in Japan, we decided to meet again at TETSU; it may not be present anymore in Kyoto station, but it is well alive and kicking in Tokyo. We met at the branch in Shinagawa’s ramen street, and I ordered their famous (tonkotsu gyokai) tsukemen with ajitama.


Broth: A rather earthy tonkotsu gyokai broth, very pleasant, which sticks extremely well to the noodles. The soup wari simply dilutes this strong taste, without bringing any new twist.

Noodles: Thick and al dente, as they should be.

Meat: One slice of thick, fibrous chashu in the broth. Good, but nothing exceptional.

Egg: A good ajitama with a very liquid yolk.

Toppings: A few slices of menma, slightly sweet, with a rather subdued taste.

Is TETSU up to its celebrity, or is it over-rated, having gained its fame thanks to their now-classical yaki-ishi? (the hot stone that you can put at the end in your broth to make it pimping hot again - make sure there are no noodles anymore in the broth, or they will get burned!). Well, I would say that it is for sure a high-quality tsukemen, but it definitely does nor reach the summits of e.g. Fuunji, Warito and Rokurinsha - or, to compare with the one I had earlier that day, Oborozuki. Compared with the latter, TETSU had virtually the same noodles and ajitama, but Oborozuki’s braised meat, broth complexity and interesting wari-soup definitely push it higher. Anyway, TETSU always remains a safe bet.

More info on ramendb.

Other reviews (basically every single ramen blog has an entry on TETSU):
Ramen adventure, Ramenate, Rameniac, Ramentokyo, Enjoy ramen, Ramen Walker, Tokyo times, Food Republic, Gaijin Pot.

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